Advice to get dealer to replace EV battery under warranty

[Kenny1678]

Ignoring how many bars are shown, I have actually logged the real miles traveled, rather than what the guess-o-meter shows. We are under 15 miles of actual range, which is significantly less than the 20-22 miles actual range we had when new. We only have 23K miles on our odometer, but are down to 15 miles or less of actual range, which is well below what should be expected after this plow number of miles driven.

That's pretty painful... I'm going to get the most out of the current pack and try getting it replaced on warranty. Once a new pack is in, take extreme care to keep the battery health up to par. I.e. only charging to ~75% and discharging down to at most 30%, maintaining lower SOC whenever the car is sitting, making sure the battery doesn't sit at high temperatures, etc.

I know there's a buffer, but realistically this battery pack should be a LiFEPo or since it's Li-ion there should be more software to prevent rapid degradation. It always sucks when there's such a preventable issue like this and if forces you to work a lot harder than you should to maintain the battery health...

But this is the eternal problem with PHEVs, lots of owners want to drive it full EV around town with the option of ICE for long range. The small battery means you're fully cycling it significantly more than you would be even on a small BEV like an old Leaf. Plus, plenty of owners don't even plug the car in, so it sits at 0% charge forever, and bye bye battery life. Basically, the concept of a PHEV invites typical owners to use the battery in the worst way possible in terms of maintaining battery life.

I think with proper management I should be able to get a decent life out of this car, but I think it'll just have to be a stopgap until newer PHEVs with improved lifetimes come down to a reasonable price. It's a real shame, I want a hatchback/wagon style PHEV but there's so few... Maybe eventually I'll get a V60 Polestar engineered, despite how much I dislike the infotainment and general user interface.

 

[cmc]

I'm going to purchase a 2018 Prestige with sport package, blue with brown interior soon.

During my research, I came across a recent manufacturer communication regarding "lithium-ion high-voltage batteries - determining energy content, additional information for dealerships", and figured it was extremely relevant to this thread.

It seems that Audi has officially set the line for battery capacity, and it's 70%. Anything less, you're getting a warranty battery. Anything more, you're paying out of pocket for the diag.

From the A3 e tron SSP (970253), Audi claims that the battery has a usable capacity of 7.0KWh out of 8.8KWh. That means that Audi is saying any vehicle under 4.9KWh usable is eligible for battery replacement under warranty, which seems relatively consistent with what others have been saying in this thread.

Knowing this, I'm wondering if before/upon receipt of my new vehicle I should request a battery health certificate to be performed. It would certainly ease my fears of buying an 8 year old PHEV with a basically unknown battery history... Since the vehicle is still technically under warranty for a very short period, I think it's better to strike now and hope I can get the battery replaced ASAP.

The vehicle has 47k miles and shows 16 miles of range when fully charged. Beyond that, I have no other info to go on for determining battery health. I will 100% be draining the battery completely and fully charging it the moment I get it to confirm the total usable capacity, assuming I don't get a BHC performed and discover I need a new battery.

Any advice? I'm going to be flying 2/3 of the way across the US to pick it up soon, so having it get stuck at the dealer out there for weeks on end would be seriously painful.

Hey there, thanks for posting that TSB... awesome find. How much are you paying for the car if you don't mind me asking?

 

[cmc]

But this is the eternal problem with PHEVs, lots of owners want to drive it full EV around town with the option of ICE for long range. The small battery means you're fully cycling it significantly more than you would be even on a small BEV like an old Leaf. Plus, plenty of owners don't even plug the car in, so it sits at 0% charge forever, and bye bye battery life. Basically, the concept of a PHEV invites typical owners to use the battery in the worst way possible in terms of maintaining battery life.

1) the car will run the ICE and keep the battery at its min. 20% if it is never charged and even if the "charge battery mode" has been removed

2) the presence of the ICE also means that not all of the car's mileage would be run under battery power. you could have a high mileage car where the battery is hardly ever exercised

My car is about 80% battery and 20% ICE. I have no hang ups about running the ICE since half of my commute is on a highway and people like to drive fast. Also during the winter time I'm happy to run the ICE for free heating and drive the car more like a regular non plug in... People should not be buying a PHEV if they really want a 100% EV IMO.

 

[Kenny1678]

Hey there, thanks for posting that TSB... awesome find. How much are you paying for the car if you don't mind me asking?

Currently $21,550, but if I find any issues while checking it out I might try to negotiate a little. The price is already pretty good IMO for a single owner car that's got full service history, unique color combo, and is fully optioned.

I've attached some more documents of things I've found during my research for those who are curious, it's really cool what info Audi made available on this platform.

2) the presence of the ICE also means that not all of the car's mileage would be run under battery power. you could have a high mileage car where the battery is hardly ever exercised

Yeah that's part of my point, deep discharge can cause oxidization on the electrode, which will degrade life. Even doing a lot of research on battery life, it's still hard to know exactly what the best practice is in each scenario. Typically, small charge/discharge cycles are the ideal scenario, but doing so at really low SOC is damaging. This is exactly the scenario a battery would experience in a PHEV that's never plugged in/charged.

For ideal battery life, one should be doing small (20% ish) charge/discharge cycles between 40-60% SOC. Sadly this is relatively difficult on a small battery with the current charging infrastructure and software on the A3, but I'll try my best to accomplish it.

 

[cmc]

Yeah that's part of my point, deep discharge can cause oxidization on the electrode, which will degrade life.

I think one of their documents did state that the management system would not allow that

 

[Kenny1678]

I think one of their documents did state that the management system would not allow that

From what the SSP says, it stays above 25% but that's referencing full pack capacity, 8.8KWh. Staying above 30% indicated SOC will keep you within a very healthy range.

 

[Carc]

I'm going to purchase a 2018 Prestige with sport package, blue with brown interior soon.

During my research, I came across a recent manufacturer communication regarding "lithium-ion high-voltage batteries - determining energy content, additional information for dealerships", and figured it was extremely relevant to this thread.

It seems that Audi has officially set the line for battery capacity, and it's 70%. Anything less, you're getting a warranty battery. Anything more, you're paying out of pocket for the diag.

From the A3 e tron SSP (970253), Audi claims that the battery has a usable capacity of 7.0KWh out of 8.8KWh. That means that Audi is saying any vehicle under 4.9KWh usable is eligible for battery replacement under warranty, which seems relatively consistent with what others have been saying in this thread.

Knowing this, I'm wondering if before/upon receipt of my new vehicle I should request a battery health certificate to be performed. It would certainly ease my fears of buying an 8 year old PHEV with a basically unknown battery history... Since the vehicle is still technically under warranty for a very short period, I think it's better to strike now and hope I can get the battery replaced ASAP.

The vehicle has 47k miles and shows 16 miles of range when fully charged. Beyond that, I have no other info to go on for determining battery health. I will 100% be draining the battery completely and fully charging it the moment I get it to confirm the total usable capacity, assuming I don't get a BHC performed and discover I need a new battery.

Any advice? I'm going to be flying 2/3 of the way across the US to pick it up soon, so having it get stuck at the dealer out there for weeks on end would be seriously painful.

Perfect thanks for sharing.

I'm going to purchase a 2018 Prestige with sport package, blue with brown interior soon.

During my research, I came across a recent manufacturer communication regarding "lithium-ion high-voltage batteries - determining energy content, additional information for dealerships", and figured it was extremely relevant to this thread.

It seems that Audi has officially set the line for battery capacity, and it's 70%. Anything less, you're getting a warranty battery. Anything more, you're paying out of pocket for the diag.

From the A3 e tron SSP (970253), Audi claims that the battery has a usable capacity of 7.0KWh out of 8.8KWh. That means that Audi is saying any vehicle under 4.9KWh usable is eligible for battery replacement under warranty, which seems relatively consistent with what others have been saying in this thread.

Knowing this, I'm wondering if before/upon receipt of my new vehicle I should request a battery health certificate to be performed. It would certainly ease my fears of buying an 8 year old PHEV with a basically unknown battery history... Since the vehicle is still technically under warranty for a very short period, I think it's better to strike now and hope I can get the battery replaced ASAP.

The vehicle has 47k miles and shows 16 miles of range when fully charged. Beyond that, I have no other info to go on for determining battery health. I will 100% be draining the battery completely and fully charging it the moment I get it to confirm the total usable capacity, assuming I don't get a BHC performed and discover I need a new battery.

Any advice? I'm going to be flying 2/3 of the way across the US to pick it up soon, so having it get stuck at the dealer out there for weeks on end would be seriously painful.

Amazing. Thanks for finding the attachment and sharing - and kudos to Audi for stepping up with the clarification. I was at 4.75KWh this May - and was at 6.85KWh 4 months after taking delivery. Will make an appt to have it checked out before end of warranty in a few months.

 

[SirChargesAlot]

I was at 4.75KWh this May - and was at 6.85KWh 4 months after taking delivery.

What do you mean "I was at"? Is this how much you measured being able to charge from "empty"?